Coming Soon, The Chevy Build Part II
On this page you will find articles on different aspects of engine care and performance. At the bottom, you will find a form for submitting questions to us pertaining to engine problems. If you do have an engine problem you would like help with, and submit it, please fill out the form as thoroughly as possible.Also, please be aware that the procedures, techniques, and other material on this page, as well as answers to your engine questions, may not work for your particular application, and in some instances, may be hazardous. It is up to you to use your own judgment as to whether information you find here will work for you. With that said, lets get to this months article.
Wake Up Call
Its almost time for the boating season to begin, and if your really hard core, that time is now. But for most of us, water temperature needs to get a little warmer before we're ready to go in. Most of us have had our pride and joy safely tucked away under a tarp, or stored inside during the cold winter months. Now is the time to give the engine a gentle awakening.
If you haven't been starting your engine at least once a week during the time its been stored, then doing a few things now will help bring it back to life in a gentle manner, and also keep problems from arising later.
The first thing to check, is the fuel system. If you have an electric fuel pump, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, or fuel injection. Put the end of the line in a suitable container, and run the pump. Let about a quart of gas get pumped out the tank, or tanks. This will help push any water from low points in the lines. If you have a mechanical pump, change all filters now, and change them again after you run the engine for a while. After you reconnect the fuel lines to the carburetor, or fuel injection, replace any fuel filters, and inspect the lines for unusual wear, or damage. If the fuel tanks are full, now might be a good time to put in a fuel additive that removes water. Also, additives like Marvel Mystery Oil, which can be added to fuel, would be a good choice right now. These types of additives can help lubricate the fuel pump, valve stems, and other components exposed to fuel. If the tanks are low, put in the additives when you fill up. Its always a good idea to top off the tanks after each days outing, to prevent condensation from forming in the tanks. Also, you may be planning to go out one more time before putting away your water rocket for the winter, but the weather stops you. Then, before you know it, you've forgotten to top off the tanks.
Next, charge up the battery. If you have a battery that has removable cell caps, remove them and check the water level before charging. Its best to put the battery on charge at least once a month while being stored. Its also a good idea to disconnect the battery during storage. But, if you haven't, charge the battery slow, and charge it fully. Clean and inspect the terminals and wiring while your at it. Its a good idea to power up the electrical system, and look for any problems, such as bad fuses, or connections.
After you get the battery charged, its time to think about an oil change. Depending on how hot your engine normally runs, select an oil that won't be too thick while water temps are low. If you have no thermostat, and your engine barely runs over 100 degrees, 30 wt oil is a good choice. It would probably be a good idea to run this weight all the time, if low engine temps are common. A good oil filter is a necessity also. Don't use a cheap filter, you'll only spend a lot more money later, by saving a little now.
Now that you've got the oil and filter changed, think about pre oiling the engine. Although most people won't think its really necessary, it sure does save wear and tear on the engine when its started. To pre oil, you may need to buy, or fabricate a tool for it, depending on what brand of engine you have. If you have a slotted oil pump drive, like a Chevy, you can use a distributor shaft, minus the gear, from an old distributor. You should be able to find a junk one at a local salvage yard. If you've got a hex type oil pump drive, you can do the same thing, or use a socket on an extension. However, if you use a socket and extension, make sure the socket won't slip off and fall into the engine. Once you have the proper tool, remove the distributor, and run the oil pump either by hand, or with an electric drill attached to the tool. Pre oil the engine for at least three minutes, to get plenty of oil pumped throughout the engine. When your finished, reinstall the distributor.
Once you've finished pre oiling, or decided not to pre oil, some attention needs to be given to the cylinders. Remove the spark plugs, and using an oil squirt can, put one or two squirts of automatic transmission fluid into each cylinder. Then, with the spark plugs still out, crank the engine over a few times. Go back, and put one more squirt of automatic transmission fluid in each cylinder and crank it over a few times again. Oiling the cylinders this way before you put up the boat for the winter would be a good idea also. With this completed, you can go ahead and put the spark plugs back in, provided they are in good condition. If not, go ahead and replace them now.
With all the steps above completed, it would be a good idea to run up the engine while the boat is on the trailer. Its always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher close by when starting up for the first time after a long storage period. There could be cracked or leaking fuel lines you can't see, but which could cause a fire. I don't recommend priming the engine by pouring gas down the carburetor, or using starting fluid. Both can be a serious fire hazard. Once you get the engine started, let it run at low RPM until the engine has time to warm up. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE FOR AT LEAST ONE MINUTE AFTER STARTING. I emphasize this, because its the best way to bend a valve there is. The valve stems need plenty of time to get oil on them, and the guides. Revving the engine too soon, with cause valves to stick open, and hit the pistons.
A few more tips about storing the engine. For those with high lift cams, its a good idea to back off the rocker arms at the end of the season. This will prevent loss of valve spring tension due to a valve spring being compressed over a long period of time. If you don't want to remove the valve covers, and back off the rockers, then rotate the crankshaft a half turn once a week. Its also a good idea to seal up the induction and exhaust systems before storage to prevent moisture in the cylinders. Be careful to make sure there is no water in the exhaust before sealing them up. To make headers last longer, spray a good lubricant in the drain holes of each tube, and down the collector. Also, remove any baffles, and lubricate them also.
We hope this article will help you get back in the water with the least amount of hassle, and also prolong your engine life. Lets face it, its no fun to be turning wrenches when you could be turning your prop.
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